McDonalds Shock
When did McDonalds become a luxury food? In the shopping mall there are McDonalds ice cream stands and in a separate area McDonalds restuarants. I've not had any interest in eating at a McDonalds here until the other day. I was craving one of the basic McD's hamburgers so I went to one of their restuarants. The menus here only offer the premium items we see in the US. They don't have the "dollar menu" or basic hamburgers etc. As I was looking at the menu board I finally noticed the prices; my eyes about fell out of my head! A Big Mac is $12.50 Reais which is $7.50 usd, add fries for $7.50 Reais ($4.50 usd) and a coke for about $3.00 usd which comes to about $17.00 usd for your basic McD's meal! Needless to say I won't be eating there. I'll take the local, prepared fresh every day Brazilian food for about $4.50 usd for a full plate!
The Movies
Since things have been relaxed I've taken in a couple movies. They're in english with portuguese subtitles. I thought the subtitles would help me learn a little, and granted I did learn a couple words here and there. But I found myself watching the moving, ignoring the subtitles and watching like I do at home. Both movies were pretty good. The first was "Flawless" with Demi Moore and Michael Cain and pulling off a diamond heist in the 60's. Demi's acting was excellent and I alway enjoy Micheal Cain. The other movie was called "The Street Kings". It was a bit voilet and pretty heavy on the dirty language, but once the movie got going it was entertaining and had a plot that kept you guessing.
Camarone Gringoe
I decided to spend Saturday at the beach. During the week the beaches are kind of quiet and relaxed. On the weekends its a whole different story. It's like they move entire cities to the beach. During the week its sand and few people. On the weekends its full on services, chairs, umbrellas for as far as the eye can see. When you approach the beach area you are immediately approched by many "greeters" who meet people and try to point them to the area they're servicing. Since I didn't want to fight my way through the crowds, I acknowledged one guy and let him take me down to the area where he'd set up business. They fix the chair, make sure the umbrella is set the way you want, bring you a little table and make sure you're all set in. For some reason they don't push things, they ask if you want something and if you say no, they go off a leave you alone. However, the moment you look around and or look like you want something, these guys appear out of no where to wait on you. Drinks, food, whatever you want, they'll go hustle it up for you; its a very relaxing way to spend the day.
I decided to forgo the sunscreen and thinking I was under the umbrellas (I did not go in the sun once) I was safe from sunburn. This one vendor kept coming by trying to sell me sunscreen --which is another item that will cause sticker shock, even at the wal mart, sunscreen is incredibly expensive-- and he kept saying "voce irie a camarone" (Camarones are shrimp and are very red) "you will be red". Oblivious I spend the entire afternoon there. Finally I headed home and I felt like I was a little sun burned. Sure enough back at the apartment I looked in the mirror, my chest and legs were bright red. Thank goodness not burned, but still pretty darn red. I guess the UV is reflective even in the shade. Next time I invest in the sunscreen!!
Sunday with Paulo's family
When Paulo and I had dinner last week he invited me to church Sunday and to have lunch afterwards with his family; I agreed. This was my first time in a Mormon church and a little aprehensive a first because I didn't know what to expect. All in all it was good morning. Paulo is the secretarty and organist for the church so he introduced me to a few people and had to run off to take care of things. He put me in the care of two missionaries from the --as they called it-- Missionary Factory in Salt Lake City. I must say it was nice to have someone to talk to in full english! I sat with them through the service. One of them translated for me, which made it nice to understand what was being said. Afterwards I witnessed a baptism and Paulo introduced me to his (seemingly never ending) family members. Sisters, brothers, nieces, nephews, it was all a blur. After the services we made our way through the little village to his house (in a downpour of rain!! Thank goodness we had umbrellas). His mother and sisters had lunch prepared and we all ate. I did manage some basic conversation without feeling completely foolish and they did a good job of making me feel comfortable being there. From what I understand Paulo's family is one who hosts new missionaries when they arrive in the area, so they're used to having strangers and people that don't speak portuguese around. Paulo is the only one in the family who speaks any english. All it all it was a very nice day. Needless to say, I did come home with a "Book of Mormon" (in portuguese) as I didn't feel comfortable saying no. The missionary guy said if I can complete the book, I will know Portuguese; I'm sure I would :-)
G0vernors Mansion
Finally I got to the Governors Mansion! It was pouring rain again, but I said I "had to go". The proper name is "Palácio do Campo das Princes" which means "field house (camp) of the princes. As I understand it, this area is where one of the kings would come to "camp" and the park in front of the palace is where his children would play (the princes). He built the first governors mansion there in 1851. Over the years it has grown to what it is today. The Governor does not live the now --though they have the choice to--, but it is still an active government building, thus there is security detail assigned to each of the tours. The rain kept us from touring the gardens -- which looked amazing--, though afterwards I did get a quick photo in front between rain squalls.
Casa Fort
After the tour, --which my camera batteries died!! and I did not bring my extra, so no photos of Casa Forte-- I wanted to see the older upper class neighborhood of Recife called Casa Forte. It is a very (very) expensive place and I'd read about the old mansions and old architecture there. I managed to navigate my way there and spent a few hours walking around. It was very relaxed, lots of trees, uncrowded streets and an occaisonal mansion from the 1800's to turn of the century. I was finally able to determine the financial history of Recife. It was founded in the 1600's and was the first major european city in Brazil. Sugarcane and slaves where the primary trade and into the late 1800's is was the finanicial and trade capital in Brazil. Remenents of its wealth and power are seen throughout the city and in the older upscale neighborhoods. Two major things contributed to the loss of power: 1. the "discovery" of sugar beets in Europe decreased the need for sugar cane from Brazil, and 2. Coffee in the south (Rio de Janiero and Sao Paulo) became the next major export for the country. As that happend, the slaves, the money and the power shifted to the south. By the 1950's Recife was in decline. Recife's economy started recovering in the 90's, as evident by the new high rise buildings, some (very limited) reconstruction downtown etc. It has a long way to go, but if it keeps going it has the potential to be strong city as it was in the past.
Lost and Found again
My languange was really put to the test yesterday!! It has been raining off and on here. When it rains here, it pours. There's no sprinlkes, when it comes down, it comes down. The good thing is the rain never seems to last for more than 20 or 30 minutes. Walking around one day and having got caught is heavy rain twice, I bought a cheap (BIG) umbrella.
I went to the mall for lunch and took the umbrella as it had been raining off and on. Had lunch and walked off and left the umbrella at the table. I got to the other side of the mall and realized I left it. I hustled back to the table and of course it was gone. I looked around in a panic (for two reasons, I wanted the umbrella and I was a bit stricken how to go about asking where I could find it), finally I approached one of the ladies cleaning up. I told her I spoke little portuguese and did she have a "voce tem a grande negra sobrino?" (do you have a large black umbrella?). She paniced a little too and called another lady over, who --very patiently and slowly-- explained to me in portugues where to go find the REC (pronounced hecke) which is the lost and found. After asking directions a couple times, I found the place and managed to convey I was looking for the an umbrella. The guy dissapeared and came back a few minutes later with my umbrella; I was so happy.
Remember this?
I took this picture last fall of the local produce stand. The other morning I had to get a picture of it open to show it really is the local streets produce stand.
And Finally
It's Tuesday and I spent the day in Recife's central market place. Since its very crowded there and there's the possibility of petty crime, I did not take the camera or anything with me. I spend the entire day walking through the many street and alleys crowded with vendors selling everything imaginable. I walked and walked until my feet were killing me. Had lunch in a tiny kitchen tucked away in one of the alleys and shopped for Brazilian flags for myself and some friends. As I decided to leave, I chose rush hour to get on the bus. The usual 25 minute ride turned into an hour and fifteen minutes. By the time I went to the wal mart for evening food supplies and got back to the apartment I was beat!!
Wednesday I'm hoping to go swimming in the beach pools when the tides are out, Thursday I'll be going to Gravata and Friday preparing to leave on Saturday. With any luck I will have another post or two before I leave.
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